If Cofete is Fuerteventura's untamed, sprawling soul, then Ajuy is its ancient, geological heart. Tucked away on the rugged west coast, this tiny fishing village is a world away from the golden sands and bustling resorts. Ajuy doesn't just offer a different view; it offers a journey back in time—a journey measured not in decades or centuries, but in millions of years.
I often tell people that to truly understand Fuerteventura, you have to visit Ajuy. It's a compact, potent dose of everything that makes this island so special: raw coastal beauty, a tangible sense of history, and an authentic charm that hasn't been polished away.
Driving into Ajuy feels like discovering a well-kept secret. The landscape is stark and volcanic, and then suddenly, you dip down into a small bay where a cluster of brilliant white and blue houses stands in stark contrast to an incredible beach of shimmering, jet-black sand.
This isn't your typical sunbathing spot. The sand, ground down from ancient volcanic rock, can get surprisingly hot under the midday sun. Fishing boats rest on the shore, their bright colours a pop of life against the dark canvas. The whole scene is overseen by a handful of excellent, no-frills seafood restaurants, where the catch of the day is often brought straight from those very boats. The vibe is slow, simple, and utterly captivating.
The real magic of Ajuy begins with the walk north of the village. A well-maintained but rugged path leads you up and over the cliffs, and this is where you start to peel back the layers of time. You are now walking on the Ajuy Basal Complex, the oldest rock formations not just in Fuerteventura, but in all of the Canary Islands—over 100 million years old. This is literally the ancient seabed and the very foundation of the island, pushed up from the ocean floor.
Insider Hint 1: Proper Shoes are Non-Negotiable. I’ve seen people attempt this walk in flip-flops, and I wince every time. The path is uneven, rocky, and involves steps carved into the stone. You don’t need hiking boots, but a sturdy pair of trainers or walking sandals is essential for your comfort and safety. This is not a barefoot beach stroll.
Insider Hint 2: Look Down! Spotting Fossils. As you walk, keep an eye on the light-coloured, limestone-like rock layers under your feet. These are fossilised sand dunes and seabeds. Look closely, and you can often see the petrified tunnels of ancient shipworms and other marine fossils. It’s an incredible feeling to know you’re walking on a surface that was once deep beneath the ocean.
The walk itself is short—perhaps 15 minutes—but the views are immense. You look back over the black sand beach and the tiny village, and out across the vast, powerful Atlantic.
The path descends into a vast natural amphitheatre, leading to the entrance of the sea caves (Cuevas de Ajuy). These enormous, cathedral-like caverns were carved out by the relentless power of the ocean. Stepping inside, the air cools, and the sound of the waves outside becomes a deep, rumbling echo that seems to vibrate through your chest.
Historically, these caves were used to load ships with the lime produced in the nearby kilns, a vital part of the island's old economy. But, of course, the more exciting stories are of pirates and smugglers who used these hidden coves to stash their loot and hide from the authorities. Standing inside, looking out at the turquoise water framed by the dark mouth of the cave, it’s easy to let your imagination run wild.
Insider Hint 3: The Fisherman's Lunch. Your visit to Ajuy is incomplete without a meal at one of the beachfront restaurants. Don't look for a fancy menu. Just ask what the fresh fish of the day is (pescado del día). Served simply grilled with some wrinkly Canarian potatoes (papas arrugadas) and mojo sauce, it’s the perfect end to your adventure. Eating fresh seafood with the sound of the waves just metres away is a core Fuerteventura experience.
Insider Hint 4: Chase the Sunset. Being on the west coast, Ajuy is one of the best places on the island to watch the sunset. The late afternoon sun illuminates the multi-coloured cliffs in incredible shades of ochre, red, and brown. If you time your visit for later in the day, you'll be rewarded with smaller crowds and a truly spectacular natural light show as the sun dips into the Atlantic.
Insider Hint 5: Check the Conditions. The Atlantic is a powerful force here. While the path is generally safe, it can be closed during periods of very high seas or extreme weather for safety reasons. Likewise, the waves on the black sand beach can be very strong with dangerous currents. Like Cofete, this is a place for admiring the water, not for casual swimming.
Ajuy is a geological and historical treasure. It’s a place that reminds you of the immense power of nature and the incredible depth of time. It might only take a couple of hours to explore, but its story—of pirates, fishermen, and a continent rising from the sea—will stay with you long after you've brushed the last grains of black sand from your shoes.
Walking the path to the caves in Ajuy is like a mini-safari if you know what to look for. The small animals you'll meet are perfectly adapted to the dry, rocky coastal environment. Here are the most common creatures you're almost guaranteed to encounter:
These are, without a doubt, the undisputed stars of the show and the animals everyone remembers from Ajuy.
What they are: Often mistaken for chipmunks, these are actually small, striped squirrels native to North Africa, introduced to Fuerteventura in the 1960s. They are absolutely everywhere along the path.
Behaviour: They are incredibly bold and curious, having grown very accustomed to visitors. They will scamper along the rocks and walls right beside you, often stopping to stand up on their hind legs to get a better look. They are very sociable and you'll see them chasing each other and playing.
Insider Tip: While they are very cute and will eagerly approach you for food, it's generally advised not to feed them. Feeding them human food isn't healthy for them and contributes to them becoming pests in some areas. Just enjoy watching their natural antics!
Keep your eyes peeled on the sun-baked rocks and you'll spot these native inhabitants.
What they are: A species of wall lizard found throughout the Canary Islands. The ones in Fuerteventura are typically grey or brownish with distinctive patterns of spots or stripes, perfectly camouflaging them against the volcanic rock. You can often spot males with a bright blue or green patch on their throat.
Behaviour: They are much shyer than the squirrels. You'll usually see them basking in the sun to warm up. If you get too close, they will dart into a crevice in the blink of an eye. The best way to watch them is to stand still for a moment and scan the rocks around you.
These are the masters of camouflage and are more active as the day cools down.
What they are: Small, nocturnal or crepuscular lizards. You might spot one clinging motionless to a rock wall or the side of a building in the village, especially in a shaded spot.
Behaviour: They are very shy and will scurry away if disturbed. You're most likely to see one by chance when it moves.
The cliffs of Ajuy are also home to several bird species that thrive in the coastal environment.
What you might see: You will almost certainly see Yellow-legged Gulls soaring overhead or nesting on the cliffs. You might also spot smaller birds like Berthelot's Pipits flitting among the rocks and sparse vegetation, or occasionally a Kestrel or even a rare Barbary Falcon hunting along the coastline.
So, while the squirrels will be the most obvious and entertaining companions on your walk, take a moment to look closely at the rocks and sky. You'll find a whole little ecosystem of resilient creatures thriving in that beautiful, ancient landscape.